Day 4: Lucmabamba to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu entrance).

 After our little bit of luxury for the night we all felt well prepared for a great hike over the mountain pass, with great views of Macchu Picchu and then a slow descent into the valley below to Hidroelectrica, the small PeruRail terminal village. In comparison to the walk a few days ago, the climb would be much simpler with an altitude of 2000 to 2900 metres and a shorter distance, 15 or 25kms depending on whether our feet demand a train ride.

The mountain walk was spectacular with lush jungle, green pastures and fantastic views of the Andes. We sat in several of the alpaca / llama pastures that were also camping areas, which truly had the most incredible views we’d ever seen and with Machu Picchu in the far distance giving an impression of its incredible isolation. The boys were in their element as the bird life was endless including many Hummingbirds that they are desperately trying to get a great shot of - they move so quickly! 

Hydroelectrica to Aguas Calientes was the final 10km stretch of the walk, and in my head, we were going stay in another little village, and complete the trek the following day but oh no, not my crazy family! 😬They all want to get this done and get to Aguas Calientes, the gateway town to Machu Picchu. Apart from Seb who we now know is an absolute endurance legend, we’ve all had days we’ve struggled and today was mine as my ankles and knees had had enough, largely to do with the giant backpack and terrible ill-fitting shoes I was wearing (I have to blame something!).  With great reluctance and not wanting to let the side down, I agreed to walk the final 10km, but I wasn’t looking forward to it as the trek was along a train track and by the time we left, it was already 3.30 🤔. 

Off we set, the boys literally firing on all cylinders with me dragging behind like the old poor mother!  Apart from walking over sleepers and rocks that slowed your waking, the route was actually not too bad with great views within the looping canyon with jungle and lush river running alongside. 

This was all very lovely until it started to get dark and progress was slow! Now nearly 2 1/2 hours in and each person we ask says there’s still 20mins or 30mins to go. Then out of the twilight we’re faced with a train tunnel and signs stating “DO NOT ENTER”, but as we read no other advice, seen no other direction signs and seen multiple signs en-route also stating do not cross the tracks, (which was absolutely necessary at various sections), we entered! Ok, we have to do this as it’s a part of the route and we have only seen one train and none are expected according to the timetable, so we start walking through the what looks like a short 50m stretch. Then the familiar vibrations of the diesel locomotive unit! We look behind and there are lights heading our way and we’re bang in the middle! We huddle and pin ourselves to the tunnel wall, both boys crying and screaming 😱 with utter horror as the train roars past us.

Alive but somewhat rattled, we pull ourselves together and exit the tunnel. Now it’s dark. With one head torch and a mobile light we march on only to see another tunnel! Without wanting to paint too much of a vivid picture of this moment, suffice to say panic set in! Never has the scenario of between a rock and a hard place been more apt!

Now our suspicions are aroused that possibly we may have missed a turn…. 🤔. We had, luckily we spot an escape path down to the road fortunately running parallel, down we scramble to safety with the reassuring town lights in the distance.

10 mins later we’re sat having the best tasting beer and pizza at a street side restaurant table.