Chamula

During our time in San Cristobel, we wanted to visit one of the indigenous communities, and just a few kilometres away, was just that. A small town nestled even higher in the mountains was a small community of Tzotzils, an indigenous group even shorter than the regular Mexicans, and we definitely feel at home here, in fact we feel like giants.

With a greater understanding of the area and how the Xapotec community had and continue to fight to retain their indigenous customs and practices we took a short ride from San Christibal to a small village in the hills to have a nosy at the rituals carried out by the Zapotecs within the Catholic Church. Not that this is a pilgrimage but we heard it was worth a look. We wander around the markets selling the usual handmade colourful wares, and no, I don’t want a pair or pants made of woven material or a fluffy skirt made of lambs wool (literally a black sheepskin rug). It’s 35 degrees!

This church was not typical of any that we’d peeked into in any previous town or city. To give a brief description, instead of the typical sculpture and paintings were instead figurines of their Saints, at least 20 that lined the two sides of the church. All pews were removed and instead the floor covered in pine needles. In any remaining spaces tables or clearings on the floor were covered with thousands of candles, a mesmerising sight to walk into. We spent some time watching, trying unsuccessfully not to be too conspicuous, an ‘elder’ (about my age…) curing his daughter of some ailment, with repeated muttering of prayer and stroking a herbal bouquet over the girl. Quietly waiting next to the family was a chicken waiting to be returned to her pen…. no such luck for this chick! The ritual ended with the hen being offered to the chosen saint, then with a swift twist the limp hen was held up and a toast of the local pox (pronounced ’posh’) or bizarrely also Coca Cola was ceremonially drunk to end the ceremony.

Certainly worth a read if you’re interested: